Corona Virus and the Shikoku Pilgrimage

It has been news for several days now but it needs repeating and reporting on this site.

The Shikoku 88 Buddhist Temple Pilgrimage is shut down for the time being due to the Corona Virus Pandemic. This is likely no surprise to most, and it is an unfortunate necessity for everyone to be safe and healthy as we all do our part to get through these trying and difficult months.

Oddly enough, I feel rather optimistic despite this unhappy news. We are going to find a way to get through this and come through the other side. A vaccine will be created and home cures like injecting oneself with household cleaners will not be needed. The world may heed the good advice of doctors to treat viruses carefully, and to be sensibly cautious. And hopefully anti-vaccine people will come through this pandemic healthy and whole as well, and then realize that their anti-science attitudes are dangerous and self-destructive.

It is unclear when a vaccine will be ready and accessible, but I would like to hazzard a guess that 18 months from now we can pretty much get back to normal. I would like to believe that a vaccine will be available, and although the corona virus may still infect and travel, people will be better equipped to deal with it.

There may also be need to keep a handy website accessible while you might come to Shikoku in 2022 and it is this one here: https://covid19japan.com

At the time of this posting, Shikoku is doing reasonably well, but the numbers of who might be sick or infected are difficult to truly know. More data on the matter, rather than less, might be a good idea.

In the meantime, I think I will keep doing what we all need to do and that is to stay safe and healthy, to do more reading and research on the pilgrimage in this “down time” and to start making plans for when life can get back to a semblance of “normal”.

Please stay safe and healthy. More to come in the days and weeks ahead!

Ohenro Girl: Cycling through Shikoku!

This production is a very nice little melodrama of a group of young people who discover themselves and learn more about relationships. The acting is very much on par for a lot of daytime drama type shows in Japan. Not Academy Award performances perhaps, but it’s nice just the same.

 

The entire show has subtitles so click them on and follow along.

Book Report: The Way of the 88 Temples by Robert Sibley

This is a book that I have really come to love, for a bunch of reasons. The author is articulate and intelligent. His writing is very much “present” and “in the moment”. He is a Canadian. He is a writer steeping in philosophy, and continually learning and growing. He comes from Alberta, which is where I grew up. He traveled around Shikoku at a time I didn’t even know he was in the area. He could have walked right by my house.

And then there is this book. Compared to a lot of traveler accounts of “the road not taken” he stands head and shoulders above most. But as you read this book it is important that you are reading more about the pilgrim’s experience than temple information. Most certainly, there is a LOT of great background and snippets of culture, language, Buddhism, folklore, and personalities throughout, but they are all intrinsically linked to the immediate experience of Sibley. This certainly does not take anything away from the book. In fact, it serves to make the reading more intimate and intense. This is a book that inspires and touches, rather than lecture and expound.

There may be critics who claim that the book is light on data and information about the temples. This is not a guide book. This is Robert’s book, and his story. And he tells it well.

Highly recommended. I loved it. And he made me laugh out loud several times.

He also surprised me with a few moments that were particularly touching.

Thank you, Robert! When you come again, please drop me a line. Dinner and beers are my settai waiting for you here in Kagawa!

Robert Sibley has written a few other books as well, including one on the Camino. Please check out his site: http://www.rumourofgod.com/index.html

Mainichi Shinbun on Best “Omotenashi”

Check out this article by the Mainichi!

https://mainichi.jp/english/articles/20200112/p2a/00m/0na/002000c

“Omotenashi” is an expression you hear often in hospitality circles. It can mean a lot of things, but it is the term to best express the thoughtful and gracious reception we get as foreign visitors to Japan. There is kindness, empathy, care, and a desire to “share the moment”. Elegant, and very Japanese.

Yamacha Ohenro Channel

Right now there is a rather nice channel you might want to follow if you are interested in walking the Shikoku Pilgrimage. You will get a day-by-day account with Yamacha! I’ve just started walking the videos and they look great. I also really like the music too.

If you have some time, sit back and let Yamacha Ohenro walk you through the daily journey of “Aruki Henro”, the “Walking Pilgrim”.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIUFJJYTiGZ2129tw0CZTMA/videos

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Hard Copy of Your Pilgrimage in Japan

Amazon is a speedy machine. I had put out the notice that the Kindle version was ready to go and when I woke up this morning I got the notice that the hard copy version is now also available.

I can’t describe how excited I am that this book is out there. I have written books before, and make a bunch of textbooks/homework books for our English student. But this one is a special book. It is one that I hope will serve as an inspiration to whet the appetite of people who are all over the world and thinking of doing something for their lives that may help them get “on a better path”.

Of course, no vacation or long walk through the woods and through temples will solve all your problems. But time away from the noise of things that drag you down, a bit of a disconnect from the white sound of television and media, and a chance to learn and explore the glorious Shikoku Pilgrimage may do one’s soul good.

So, if you are interested please get yourself a copy of the book. Available through fine internet connections everywhere:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1701297779/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=your+pilgrimage+in+japan&qid=1571792058&s=books&sr=1-1

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Ohenro is not your Homeless Vacation

Hello one and all.

I am afraid that this blog will be set on an unpopular theme. The theme is that of foreign Ohenro coming to Shikoku and behaving like homeless people. Let me put out the caveat right away that I am deeply troubled to see homelessness in any country. As human beings we ought to have the right to have adequate shelter from the weather, a place to retreat to stay warm or cool as the season dictates. We need to have homes to be safe from people who might do us harm. We need homes for all, especially kids, older people, and the mentally ill who are too often thrown out into the street as trash.

Progressive countries around the world understand that homelessness is a social disease, it destroys the human heart, is bad for society as it becomes more dangerous, is inhumane, and is also counter-intuitive economically. People who are safe in shelters and homes can focus on other issues for life, employment, education, and participation in society. We all become better and safer for our active participation in wiping out homelessness.

So why is it, for the love of all that is holy, that we have foreign visitors coming to Shikoku to behave like the homeless? Why would anyone want to behave like that? I simply do not understand it. But here they come… and there are quite a number of reports that come to our ears about some very poor behaviour. Throwing trash on the path, sleeping in public places like schools and cemeteries, and using public handicapped toilets as showers and wash stations.

As an active advocate for the Shikoku Pilgrimage, an inbound consultant for local financial institutions, the JR Shikoku, local businesses, hotels, and merchants, the “homeless Ohenro” is something that we really do not need to see too much of. It has been a problem in the past and I hope to do my part to nip some of these lousy behaviours and attitudes in the bud.

There seems to be some former encouragement by “Ohenro experts” that anyone can come to Shikoku, wander through the route, beg for food and necessities on the way, and have an expectation of “osettai” as they hike down the road. This has been a very economically and socially damaging source of foolish advice. I strongly protest this message that has been sent out into the world so far that “osettai” is like some sort of “free lunch” or an “Ohenro entitlement”. It’s ridiculous, and stupid. I wish it would stop.

Yet, there are complaints from “Walking Ohenro” (called “aruki henro”) of how expensive the Shikoku Pilgrimage is. They complain that drink machines charge them money for drinks. They complain that a beautiful calligraphy stamp (which they will keep as a gorgeous and unique souvenir forever) in their beautifully embroidered stamp book (which costs only 25 dollars) will cost them 3 dollars. They complain that they might be “expected” to drop a coin into an offertory box when they come to each (access free) temple to pray. They complain that a hotel or inn is too expensive at about 30 dollars a night. They complain that buses and trains may ask for money for services. They use a vulgar term “Pay to Pray” as some kind of description that they are abused financially as they go around the whole of Shikoku, sleeping in public tax money funded parks and schoolyards, cemeteries, and bathe themselves in handicapped toilets.

Then there is the garbage left behind in their wake.

Good Lord.

There is some kind of weird expectation that while a Walking Pilgrim can completely lay out several thousands of dollars for high-tech backpacks, tents, sleeping gear, walking shoes, hiking underclothing, cell phone, sunglasses, hiking poles, and all manner of accessories, that when it comes to the actual walking the trail, staying at proper lodging each and every evening, paying for food and drink, and purchasing the most simple Ohenro materials that suddenly everything is “too expensive” and “Japan is trying to rip me off.”

Unbelievable.

Then they should feel that it is somehow their “Ohenro right” to sleep in the schoolyards that belong to the children who go to school here in Shikoku, and has been funded by their parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents. And the trail of garbage left behind should be picked up and disposed of through public funds and services.  I think that most Japanese people are too polite to say anything directly, so I’ll help out a bit with:

Who do you think you are?

Part of the problem is with the efforts to date to identify and explain what “Osettai” is. Yes, yes, I know that there are “experts” who tell you that as a pilgrim you receive the gift from people so that YOU can help THEM fulfill their wish that they take their burdens with you on the pilgrimage. That is a very nice image to have in mind. Sometimes that might be true, but sometimes a cup of tea or an orange is just a “have a nice day” kind of thing. You can say “thank you” and be grateful, and not behave that you are doing them some big favour by accepting things.

Most people receive an “osettai” and they are truly deeply thankful. That is beautiful, and wonderful, and a treasure for your experience in Shikoku. When done right, and approached right, it’s marvellous. But when there is an inkling of expectation in the osettai moment, the whole thing just turns to dirt.

If you are a walking pilgrim reading these words I hope that you understand the simple fact that no one owes you anything. The hope for osettai, or expectation of receiving osettai, or the unhappy feeling of not receiving osettai, should not be anywhere near your brain. Just walk your walk. In fact, it would be more psychologically useful to you to not want to receive anything from anyone. This is your walk. Go walk it. Focus on yourself and who and what you are. Think about what you can learn. Not what you can get.

Too harsh? Too much “on the nose”? I can’t say I am sorry about that.

I think that if you come to Shikoku you should pay for your vacation here. Just like you pay your bills wherever you go. Pay for your airplane ticket. Pay for a hotel, or inn, or AirBnB each and every night. No camping. No sleeping outdoors. No washing up in handicapped bathrooms (What if someone NEEDS to be in there while you are washing away? Why should anyone need to suffer in their wheelchair because you took their toilet unnecessarily? Please give that one a think.) And please, no “Well, I just used it for a minute. What’s the problem? trash talk. Is that the kind of thing a “real” Ohenro does to their fellow human? This is your walk of human discovery towards enlightenment?

I think that you should eat proper meals when you are here whenever possible. Sit down in a restaurant or a cafe and order off the menu. Eat something good and healthy and local. Support the Shikoku you say you love with your wallet. For real. The food is very reasonably priced. The accommodations are very reasonably priced. The only unreasonable thing is a homeless foreign Ohenro who eats in parking lots, washes in public spaces, and pretends that their public behaviour has no impact on others.

Oh, now here comes the objection….

“How can I possibly afford to walk the entire Shikoku Pilgrimage and pay for lodging all the way through for 6 to 8 weeks? That’s not fair!”

The answer is, my dear pilgrim, that if you cannot afford it, you cannot afford it. Just like if you can’t afford something in a store you don’t get to buy it. If you can’t buy a new car, or an old car, or any car you have to take the bus. If you can’t afford to buy super fancy shoes you will have to buy regular shoes. If you can’t afford to do the whole pilgrimage you can do part of it. That is simple. And it is what adults do. Whether or not it is “fair” is not even an issue. If you are determined to spend thousands of dollars in airfare and gear for yourself, you could probably find a way to take more time to work a job and save enough to come and have a zero-negative impact experience here in Shikoku.

Otherwise, you are arguing why the people of Shikoku need to take care of you, pick up your trash, and subsidize your vacation. I can’t think of any place in the world that permits a visitor to the country to behave in such a manner.

Grow up already.

If I have offended your sensibilities I can’t apologize for saying some things that just need to be said. Of course you are welcome and encouraged to explore Shikoku and have the walk of your life. That is great, and I really wish you all the best. But please do so at no one’s expense but your own. Do no harm. Do no damage. Make a place better by you having been there. Take nothing from anyone, except in a true osettai moment, but give your kindness and support to things that make a difference.

I have children that are growing up here in Shikoku. I don’t think that part of their future, and public obligation towards paying taxes needs to go anywhere near the subsidization of foreign ohenro experiences. We are supposed to make our world better for the next generation coming after ours. That is something that we as adults need to do better, effectively, relentlessly, and selflessly.

Pay your bills, and be a positive contributing member of the thousands and thousands of others who support the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Don’t be “a taker”. You’ll feel better for it. And you know it’s the right thing to do.

 

Artist Tali Landsman and Shikoku

Tali Landsman is a remarkable person. She walks the earth. Really. She goes everywhere. She has walked pilgrimages all over the world. All over Europe and Asia she has trekked for many days. She is also a very interesting artist too.

I’m not an artist myself, but I like art. I like looking at art, and I like people who make art.

Her site is fun, and varied, and goes in all directions. I lost myself in here for the better part of an hour. It was well spent.

https://talilandsmanart.com/2016/05/06/and-so-it-begins-nan-jin-desu-ka-japanese-for-how-many-are-in-your-party/

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atsushi ASH: GREAT Youtube Ohenro

This is really Shikoku Pilgrimage Youtube gold for walking pilgrims in Shikoku. The creator, atsushi ASH, did an amazing job in documenting his 42 day trek around Shikoku. His documentary starts from Kanto and then comes to “The Pure Land”. The entire thing is in Japanese, but just switch on the English subtitles and enjoy the journey.

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

Part 6

If you would like to follow Atsushi-san on his adventures please also check out his blog of his cycling journeys in Japan too! http://nippon-around.blog.jp/